Rolex Watch Models: A Complete Buyer's Guide

Rolex Watch Models: A Complete Buyer's Guide

A survey says that around 90% of Rolex owners have reported being highly satisfied with their watch

So when it’s Rolex, you know it’ll give you accuracy in time, build quality, weatherproof features, and good visibility in low-light conditions. All these calibers helped Rolex build a stable reputation over the years.

Thus there’s a big reason why such watches wear the expensive crown in the price tags. But let’s say you have saved up all your life to invest in a good model. Now, you don’t know what to pick. In that case, this write-up should help you find the one that reflects your personality. 

You’ll find a complete buyer's guide on different Rolex watch models, the countdown of the best models, details on the watches, history, tips to spot fake Rolex, and other recommendations.

So, stop wasting your precious time and dive deeper into the discussion like Submariner. 

Key Takeaways: Rolex Watch Models 

  • Out of different models, Submariner, Explorer, and Sky-Dweller are 3 top picks since they have better features and techs.
  • List your demands and pick the one that matches the most. 
  • Check the reliability of the watch and where you’ll get it from.


Key Milestones And Innovations In Rolex's History

History of Rolex

In the 1900’s, Hans Wilsdorf started dreaming of an accurate, elegant wristwatch. He was determined to make one. 

He opened a business with his brother-in-law Alfred Davis in 1905 and named the company Wilsdorf and Davis. 

The duo imported watch parts and put them together into a variety of watch cases. They sold those watches to jewelers, who used to place their names on them. But that wasn’t his goal. He aimed to be a brand himself. 

For this, Wilsdorf hoped for an easy-to-remember, catchy name that’d look nice on a watch dial. Then one fine morning, when he was traveling through the streets of London, deep in thought about a perfect creation, a genie whispered Rolex to him. 

Legend has it that the name popped up from the combination of two words: hoROLogical and EXcellence. ROLEX.

In 1908, Hans Wilsdorf officially started his journey with Rolex. He first concentrated on the quality of the time movements which brought him success. Then in 1910, a Rolex watch earned the Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision. 4 years later, the brand earned a Class “A” precision certificate from the Kew Observatory in Great Britain. 

Since then, Rolex started making a variety of wristwatches in different timelines- be it Datejust in 1945, Submariner in 1953, Yacht‑Master II in 2007, or Sky-Dweller in 2012.

Understanding Rolex Watch Models

Explanation of Rolex's model numbering system

Rolex model numbers indicate the type of model, bezel, and material. So, it can be broken down into 3 sections. 

The first 3 or 4 numbers are your model type, the second to last describes the bezel, and the last digit indicates the metal type. 

For instance, the number is 16014. 

First, break it down into 160 | 1 | 4. 

  • 160 indicates that it’s a Datejust model. 
  • The second, 1, indicates that the bezel is fluted.
  • And the last, 4, indicates it’s made of Oyster steel and white gold. 

Overview Of Different Rolex Collections

Series

Year

Key Features

Variations

Submariner

1953

Waterproof up to 300m, graduated rotatable bezel, monitor diving time, the luminescent display, large hands, and hour markers.

Submariner Date and No Date

Datejust

1945

Date window at 3 o'clock that auto-changes at midnight, certified chronometer movement, waterproof case, and self-winding mechanism.

28, 36, and 41. Lady Datejust

GMT-Master

1955

24-hour rotating bezel, extra GMT hands, Twinlock winding crown, and luminous markers.

GMT-Master II

Daytona

1959

Tachymetric scale, speed tracking up to 400m, monobloc Cerachrom bezel, three sub-dials, and the luminescent display.

Stainless steel, gold, and platinum

Yacht-Master

1992

1.5mm thinner and more contoured, raised 60-minute graduations, 18K gold, and regatta chronograph with a memory.

35, 37, and 42. Yacht-Master II

Day-Date

1956

Innovative calendar display, waterproof up to 100m, available in 26 different languages, multiple varieties.

Day-Date Stella

The Explorer

1953

Withstand extreme conditions, Twinlock winding crown, and luminous hour markers

Explorer II

Milgauss

1956

Withstand magnetic field up to 1000 gauss, Faraday cage, and luminous markers.

Dial in black and electric blue.

Air-King

1945

Big hour markers, luminous display, waterproof, and protection from magnetic fields.

Air-Giant, Air-Lion, and Air-Tiger

Detailed Look at Popular Rolex Models

Rolex Submariner

Are you a diver? Then consider a Rolex Submariner

It’s the first sports watch particularly designed for diving. Popped up in 1953, the watch originally could go as deep as 100 meters. Now, the latest models of Submariner are waterproof up to 300 meters. 

The watch comes in 41mm. Its rotatable bezel comes marked to 60 minutes which lets you monitor your time accurately underwater. Because diving deeper means low-light challenges, the watch has a Chromalight display with luminous markers and hands to make sure the timing is visible. 

Its bezel uses corrosion-resistant ceramic. The oyster case protects time self-winding movement from water and dust. Plus, the Cerachrom bezel insert is resistant to scratches and ultraviolet rays. 

You’ll get two variations in this line: the Submariner Date and No Date. Its Date models come with a date window and there's a Cyclops lens in it for easy readability. The No Date ones don’t have a date but maintain a clean, straightforward dial. Both models are available in different materials: stainless steel, gold, and combined. 

Pros:

  • Perfect for diving
  • Waterproof up to 300m deep. 
  • Markers glow in the dark.

Cons:

  • It should include smaller sizes. 

Rolex Datejust

Love something vintage-y? Then, Datejust is just for you. 

Debuted in 1945, Rolex Datejust has maintained its classic beauty with little changes. 

There’s a date window at 3 o’clock which is its hallmark feature. It automatically changes at midnight so you can track the new date. Another one is the certified chronometer movement that ensures time precision. 

The Datejust also comes with a self-winding mechanism that triggers the watch to be wound constantly by your wrist’s movement. Although one of the basics, the Datejust uses a waterproof case that used to be a groundbreaking feature during that time. 

The line has two popular variations: Datejust 36 and 41. This refers to their sizes in millimeters. The 36mm one comes in traditional size which would look great on wrists of different sizes. The 41mm has a bigger dial that makes it more legible and perfect for those with bigger hands.

A good thing is Rolex has another variation in this line with 28mm. It’s the Lady Date-Just which bears the elegance of the original one but for women. 

Pros

  • The date window at 3 o’clock
  • Self-winding mechanism
  • Comes in 36 and 41 making it right for both smaller and wider wrists. 

Cons

  • Should have more advanced features 

Rolex GMT-Master

Keeping track of multiple time zones gets easier with Rolex GMT-Master

The watch first emerged in 1955. It was mainly designed for Pan Am airline pilots and navigators.

Its noticeable feature is its rotating 24-hour bezel and a 4th “GMT” hand. With this, you can check a 2nd time zone along with the local time. It also comes with a Twinlock winding crown that prevents water from leaking into the movement. 

GMT-Master models are usually available in different colors. You can get them in stainless steel, gold, and Rolesor (a combo of both). Moreover, they have luminous markers on both the dial and hands to check time in low-light conditions. 

To provide airborne adventurers with more convenience, Rolex came up with GMT-Master II in 1989. The second version has updates like an extra triangle-tipped hand that completes one full rotation every 24 hours. You can check three time zones against the marks on the bezel. Moreover, the latest models have Cerachrom ceramic bezel that gives you long-lasting performance. 

Pros

  • Tracks multiple time zones
  • Twinlock winding crown prevents water leak
  • Glows in the dark

Cons

  • It may take time for some people to understand how the functions work. 

Rolex Daytona

‘Fuel’ the thrill of racing with Rolex Daytona

Although it appeared in 1959, you’ll still find it popular because of its precision and reliability. Named after the famous race track Daytona International Speedway, the watch is beloved among motorsport enthusiasts. 

The series has both manual and self-winding movements. Plus, there’s a tachymetric scale on its bezel. With this, you can measure your racing speed up to 400 kilometers through a central sweep seconds hand. 

Moreover, it’s got three sub-dials: at 3, 6, and 9 markers. You can track elapsed time with this. Besides, you’ll also notice a central chronograph hand that sweeps smoothly across the face.

Its monobloc Cerachrom bezel comes in ceramic. The material is corrosion-resistant and scratch-proof. And the platinum-coated numerals and graduations feel solid. 

You’ll get a Rolex Daytona in 3 different materials. The stainless steel models are quite sleek and sporty. The gold ones give you a more opulent vibe in Pink, Yellow, and White. And the platinum ones have precious metals and are admired for their elegance. 

Pros: 

  • Measures speed up to 400 kilometers
  • Track elapsed time with three sub-dials 
  • Available in different colors

Cons

  • It may take time for some people to understand how the functions work. 

Rolex Yacht-Master

Navigate across the best moments with Rolex Yacht-Master.

The watch surfaced in 1992 for navigators, particularly, yacht racing enthusiasts. Although quite similar to Submariner, it comes 1.5mm thinner and far more contoured to your wrist. Besides, it’s the only Oyster Professional Model available in 3 different sizes: 35, 37, and 42. 

Yacht-Master has a bidirectional bezel with raised 60-minute graduations. With this, you can easily check the time you spend sailing. The watch also comes in fine metal. It uses a beautiful full 18K carat Everose gold or solid gold on its body. Not only is the watch waterproof but also scratch proof making it perfect for yacht-related sports.  

Because the original version has basic features mostly, Rolex launched Yacht-Master II in 2007 with more efficient functions. Its key feature involves the combination of the regatta chronograph programmable countdown with a memory. You can use the timer for competition events and sync the watch accurately to the race start. 

Pros:

  • 1.5mm thinner and far more contoured
  • Available in 3 different sizes
  • Countdown timer with a memory

Cons

  • The original one should have more effective features like the timer. 

Rolex Day-Date

Rolex Day-Date can let you learn the significance of punctuality.

The launch of this watch dates back to 1956. You can call it the first watch to show the time and day of the week. 

Over the decades, the design hasn’t been changed that much but there’s one unique feature. The latest batch comes in 26 different languages. So, it can express your cultural identity too. 

Moreover, you’ll get it in different colors starting from 18K yellow gold, white gold, rose gold, to platinum. The dials come in classic colors like black, white, and champagne as well as vibrant choices like blue and green. You’ll also find multiple bracelet and bezel options. 

The best part is it’s waterproof up to 100m. So, no water can harm it. 

Rolex Day-Date had another variant called the Stella. It became popular among a few vintage collectors for its vividly colored dials. However, because of the lack of commercial success, Rolex had to destroy Stella. 

Pros

  • Innovative calendar display
  • Comes in 26 languages 
  • Waterproof up to 100m

Cons

  • Should include more languages 

Rolex Explorer

No idea how long you’ve been climbing the hills? Let Rolex the Explorer be your mountain buddy. 

Emerged in 1953 along with its friend the Submariner, this watch guarantees precision and durability. Its Twinlock winding crown protects the movement from water and dust. Plus, it’s got the power to withstand water, high humidity, intense heat, and freezing temperatures. 

So, no matter how extreme the weather conditions you encounter, it can’t harm your Explorer. Even when it gets darker in the mountain, you can check the time through its luminous hour markers. 

All these qualities make it perfect for climbers. 

But wait! This line has a younger sibling as well. The Explorer II, which appeared in 1971, comes bigger, bolder, and more functional. It’s been crafted particularly for Spelunkers. 

There’s a 24-hour hand and a bezel with a 24-hour scale. It helps you know if it’s day or night, especially when you’re underground. 

Moreover, it has a date function as well with a luminous dial. Both of them help you track the date and time properly. 

Pros

  • Withstands harsh conditions
  • Twinlock winding crown protects
  • The second variant has a Date function

Cons

  • Dial design could use a prettier design

Rolex Milgauss

Rolex Milgauss is a favorite of scientists and engineers. 

The journey of this watch started in 1956. It works to withstand magnetic fields up to 1000 gauss, which is pretty impressive. 

Usually, magnetic fields are extremely powerful enough to warp the precision of traditional watches. But if you’re someone who’s often exposed to such powerful stuff, Milgaus can be perfect for you. 

Besides, the watch has other nice qualities. You’ll get a Faraday cage inside that works to protect the movement from magnetic material. 

The Milgauss also carries Oyster cases that’ll never corrode. The luminous markers will be there to show you time even if there’s no light. 

As for the variation, Milgauss comes in black and electric blue colors: something most scientists may like. 

Pros

  • Withstand magnetic fields up to 1000 gauss
  • Faraday cage prevents magnetic effects
  • It comes in black and electric blue

Cons

  • It should have more size options as it’s available in 40mm. 

Rolex Air-King

Rolex Air King rules the world of airspace with its distinct quality. 

The watch takes us back to 1945 when it hit the market. It was made to honor all the Air Force pilots of WWII. 

One noticeable feature of Air King is that it has a black dial that resembles cockpit instruments. The hour and minute markers are huge and luminous so it’s super easy for pilots to quickly check the time. 

Since its launch, the design has remained the same with minimal changes. The Air King originally came in 34mm. But now, there’s a 40mm anti-magnetic case which it borrowed from the Milgauss. Because it has a magnetic shield, the watch gets all the protection from magnetic fields. 

Besides, the watch impresses you with its solid feel and ability to ride out conditions the pilots may face. 

Although the King still reigns today, the ‘Air’ series had some variants: the Air-Lion, Air-Tiger, and Air-Giant. All of them varied in dial designs and colors with one feature being constant: waterproof. 

Pros:

  • Big, easy-to-read markers
  • Protects from magnetic fields
  • Withstands harsh conditions

Cons:

  • It should have more size options as it’s available in 40mm

Key Features to Consider When Buying a Rolex

Materials 

Rolex uses its own unique metals to create its wristwatches. The very common ones you’ll see are Oyster Steel, Everose Gold, Rolsor, Chromalight, and Cerachrom. 

Oyster Steel

Oyster Steel is a 904L stainless steel with other additives like nickel, copper, chromium, and molybdenum. This is what makes the material highly resistant to multiple types of corrosion.

You’ll find almost all Rolex watches in Oyster steel material. However, some series like Day-Day, Cellini, and Pearlmaster use either solid gold or platinum.

Everose Gold

Everose Gold, an 18-karat pink gold alloy, is a more powerful version of rose gold/pink gold material. Rolex mixes pure gold, copper, and a trace of platinum to create their own unique Everose Gold. Such a blend makes sure that the watch will never lose its red hue. Here, copper ensures a lustrous pink hue and platinum plays a big role in the preservation of color. Series like Datejust, Cellini, and the Day-Date dress their watches in this blend. 

Chromalight

Chromalight gives a sharp blue glow. It lasts up to 8 hours as it gets fully charged from UV exposure. Once there’s darkness, the markers and other display elements emit a blue glow. 

Series like Oyster Professional watches sport a nice Chromalight display. 

Rolesor 

Rolesor is a series of two-tone watches. It comes with a combo of Oyster steel and a type of gold. It can be Yellow gold, Everose Gold, or White gold. This way, you’ll get the benefits of different materials. 

Models like GMT-Master II use Rolesor which gives them a different look.  

Movements

Rolex usually brings you three types of watch movements. Auto, Manual, and Quartz. 

Automatic 

Almost all the models fortunately have an automatic movement. It means the rotor turns and winds the mainspring as you move your wrist instead of manually twisting the crown. Here, the mainspring gives power to the gears that trigger the watch to keep the accurate time. These gears can run for many hours before you need to rewind. 

Manual 

For manual movement, as the name suggests, you need to wind the watch manually and regularly. It works by twisting the crown that lets you recharge the mainspring which in turn powers the wristwatch. The benefit of such a function is that it can last longer than auto or quartz. 

Quartz

The quartz movement collects power from the battery placed inside the face of the watch. Such a function provides more precision in time because it runs accurately consistently to half a second per day.  

Sizes and Dimensions

Rolex wristwatches usually range between 28 and 44mm. The thicker your wrist, the larger the watch you’d go with. 

In case you're a man, then 36mm might be right for you. And if you’re a woman, then try out 31mm. 

Currently, the biggest watches belong to a few series like Sea-Dweller, Deepsea, and Yacht-Master II. They come 44mm in diameter. 

Some watches for ladies have smaller sizes like Lady Datejust in 28mm and Lady Yacht-Master in 29mm. 

Usually, men are supposed to have thicker wrists. However, some Rolex series offer smaller sizes for men as well such as the Datejust, Day-Date, and Oyster Perpetual. 

Water Resistance

Rolex watches have two types of crown sealing mechanisms that make them water-resistant. Twinlock and Triplock systems. The level of protection will be different but the goal is the same. And that is to prevent water from getting into the case through the crown. 

Almost all the models have waterproof features. While the classic ones can resist water pressure of up to 100m, a special series like the Submariner can withstand pressure as deep as 300m. 

Authenticity and How to Spot a Fake Rolex?

Common signs of counterfeit Rolex watches

  • Poor craftsmanship
  • Inaccuracy in timing
  • Misaligned Rolex logo and other texts
  • Poor and wrong Serial and Model Number Engravings

Tips for verifying 

  • Examine serial numbers and check the quality of movements and markings. 
  • Make sure to consult authorized dealers or Pro Appraisers. 

Recommended steps to take before purchasing

  • Cross-check the reputation of the seller. 
  • Requesting for proper documents is a must like original packaging, receipts, and warranty papers. 

Where To Buy Rolex Watches? - 4 Specific Options 

Authorized dealers

They guarantee authenticity and provide official Rolex warranties as well as after-sales service and support.

Gray Market

Not recommended but you can find some marketplaces offering new or used Rolex models. Although the price will be low, they won’t have service guarantees or official warranties. 

In-Store

Better to buy the watches directly from the Rolex stores. Look for the shop nearby and visit the place. You can locate it on their website.

Online Sites

Different e-commerce marketplaces offer authentic Rolex models. But some of them can be fraudulent too. In case you don’t want to take risks, consider shopping for a reliable place like Great Lake Watch

Pricing and Investment Value

Rolex watches can cost from $1500 to $176,000 depending on the model, metals, and other factors. On average, it may stand at $12,000. 

The more budget-friendly ones are the models made of Oyster Steel. You can find them at around $1650. Conversely, the price of models made of precious metals like gold can go up. 

You can consider investing in a Rolex watch. The benefits will be:

  • Precision in timing
  • Waterproof
  • Luminous display
  • Scratch resistant
  • Weatherproof 
  • Easy-to-read dials
  • Different variants and models 
  • Nice fitment
  • Classic look

6 Care And Maintenance Tips Of Your Rolex

  • Although Rolex models benefit you with minimal upkeep, it’s still wise to care for it a little. Consider doing these to keep your watch in the pink: 
  • Make sure the winding crown is screwed down properly against the case before cleaning your watch.
  • Clean it occasionally with a microfibre cloth.
  • Wash the case and bracelet occasionally with warm soapy water and a soft brush.
  • Make sure you have authentic warranty coverage. Seek authorized Rolex service centers for routine upkeep and repairs.
  • Don’t use the watch aggressively.
  • Rolex recommends servicing the watch approximately every 10 years.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Is The Most Popular Rolex Model?

The Submariner is the most popular Rolex model as it has all the good features like withstanding water pressure up to 300m, big dials, luminous markers, and auto movement. 

Are Rolex Watches a Good Investment?

Yes, the stable reputation of the brand, precision in timing, attention to detail, build quality, classic look, and weatherproof features make Rolex watches a good investment. 

What Is the Difference Between a Submariner and a GMT-Master?

Submariners withstand water pressure up to 300m which is ideal for divers whereas GMT master features extra hands to show you two to three time zones which makes it perfect for international traveling.

Can I Buy a Rolex online?

Yes, you can buy Rolex online from different authorized dealers like Great Lakes Watch.

 

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