The relationship between a collector and a bespoke piece of luxury horology has been eternal. Defying all odds, fighting all watchmaking stereotypes, unlike a battery-operated device that exists, a mechanical watch feels alive. Quite dynamically placed, entirely relying on your movement, the longevity of this piece of timeless elegance depends on extensive care and maintenance.
Your ultimate pleasure, too, with the watch becoming an integral part of the quintessential, esteemed portfolio, is to always look at your watch and feel it ticking. There indeed lies a sense of satisfaction that exists in strapping a piece of this sophisticated charm and everlasting beauty. What your luxury asset endows upon your wrists is the time-tested companionship of precision, physics, and artistry.
The most seasoned enthusiasts, however, could sometimes grapple with the uncertainty surrounding proper maintenance of the machine. The beauty of an automatic mechanical watch lies in its ability to wind itself, harnessing kinetic energy from daily movements. If you are in the habit of wearing the same watch every day, there is undoubtedly a symbolic relationship: you move, and it works.
What would happen if the watch built your dream collection? If you rotate between a sporty Omega for the weekend and a dressy Rolex for the boardroom, you would end up finding that your automatic watch has stopped working. Knowing these nuances for winding your automatic watch is pivotal to preserving its longevity and performance.
At Great Lakes Watch Company, knowing the mechanics of your timepiece is just as important as wearing it.
Winding Mechanics: The Heart of the Machine
To understand how to maintain your watch, you should know what makes it tick. In the world of horology, there are usually two types of movement: quartz and mechanical. Quartz watches run on batteries, are sophisticated and efficient, but they lack the soul of a mechanical watch. On the contrary, mechanical movements are powered by a wound spring and are termed the “mainspring.”
Within the mechanical category, there are two subdivisions:
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Manual-winding (Hand-wound): The crown must be physically twisted to grip the barrel, thereby tightening the mainspring firmly.
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Automatic (Self-winding): The movements use a weighted, semi-circular weight called a "rotor."
The rotor is the hero of automatic watches. With every movement you make, walk, or make other gestures, it is the impact of the gravitational force that causes the rotor to swing around the pivot. The swinging motion would encourage the gear, thus winding the mainspring and storing energy. As the mainspring gradually unwinds, energy is released most efficiently into the gear train, thereby regulating time.
With the rotor doing the heavy lifting and the watch garlanded on your wrist, the most modern and upgraded movements are crafted with the option to be wound by hand. The hybrid functionality gives the user the flexibility to jump-start even if it has been resting in a jewelry box.
Method to Hand-Wind an Automatic Watch
If your watch has been in an idle state for a few days, its power reserve will be depleted. With you shaking it to get it going, hand-winding still proves an efficient way to put the mainspring under adequate tension for precise timekeeping. The process has its dependency on the type of crown your watch possesses:
The Screw-Down Crown
Standard on dive watches and luxury sports models (like the Rolex Submariner or Omega Seamaster), the screw-down crown provides water resistance.
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Unscrew: Turn the crown counterclockwise until you feel it release from the threads. Those above would naturally pop into a neutral position.
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Wind: Time to rotate the crown clockwise. This is when you feel a slight resistance and hear a subtle ratcheting sound.
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Secure: Once done, the crown needs to be pushed back in, screwing it down tight, thus ensuring water-resistance is maintained.
The Non-Screw-Down Crown
Familiar with dress watches and vintage pieces, this crown does not lock into the case.
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Position: Ensure the crown is pushed in flush against the case (Position 0).
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Wind: Rotate the crown clockwise.
If you are unsure about specific mechanics or are seeking a watch with a particular set of features, contact our team now. At Great Lakes Watch Company, we inspect every piece to ensure optimal functionality before it reaches your wrist.
Do You Have to Wind Your Watch Often?
It is often considered one of the most common misconceptions that letting an automatic watch stop is harmful to the movement. The consensus amongst watchmakers is that it is generally safe to let the power reserve run down.
It was a preconceived notion that the lubricants present inside might thicken with time when the gears stopped moving. However, these modern, compatible synthetic oils prove authoritatively resilient, not drying out simply due to the watch’s stagnancy.
The Daily Wearer vs. The Collector
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If you wear it daily, you hardly need to hand-wind it. It is the natural motion of the wrist that would keep the tank full.
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If you rotate watches: If you are habitual of switching, you definitely have two choices. You can let the watch stop to reset it for the time you will wear it next, or you could use a watch winder.
To avoid the complications of resetting, collectors are in the habit of keeping their watches running, including the perpetual calendar and the moon phase. However, rigorous running increases the risk of wear and tear, even if minimal. If you are one of those who are fond of a gigantic yet selective collection and need suggestions on storage and winding, it is time you schedule a call with us.
How Much Should You Wind An Automatic Watch?
After days of stagnation, if you pick up your watch and put it on your wrist, the energy levels might not be immediate, which can prevent the escapement from running accurately. We recommend giving it a "kickstart" via the crown. It is therefore recommended that 30 to 40 turns are sufficient to fully wind the mainspring of most automatic watches.
You might see the second hand start sweeping immediately after 5 to 10 turns. With the watch running, the mainspring has reached an optimal torque. An entirely wound spring guarantees the most precise time measurement possible. Because it has been wound only a few times, the watch could run slowly.
The Seiko Shuffle
Every industry has its characteristic traits, and the "Seiko Shuffle" is a legendary term in horology—older Seiko automatic movements (like the famous 7S26 caliber did not possess hand-winding capabilities. The crown was used only to set the time. You had to depend entirely on the rotor to wind the watch.
Method to do it:
Keep holding the watch flat in your hand. Keep the face up and shake it subtly side-to-side, in a perfectly horizontal arc, for approximately 30 seconds. The motion would compel the rotor to spin rapidly, thus charging the mainspring.
While most modern luxury watches sold by Great Lakes Watch Company feature hand-winding capabilities, this very trick is a badge of honor for passionate enthusiasts. Serving as the basis for mechanical originality that was necessary for recording time without a battery.
Time to Wind an Automatic Watch
Winding your watch does not require much time.
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Using Hand: Not even 30 minutes would be required to reach a full potential power reserve.
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Wearing: It varies! You have a desk job and supposedly write all day. The wrist movement required to charge the depleted mainspring fully is not enough, per your working-day schedule. However, if the person is active and wears it for even a few hours, the watch could be brought up to full power.
Ask yourselves whether your luxury watch collection is gradually falling short of keeping up with your lifestyle; this might be the right time to upgrade. Check out our inventory of premium pre-owned watches to find a movement that matches your pace.
Overwinding an Automatic Watch
One of the most overwhelming feelings for any collector is the fear of overwinding, and the threat looms large for freshers. The questions they would keep asking themselves are:
"If I keep turning the crown, will I snap the spring?"
For automatic watches in particular, the answer would be a definitive “no.” You certainly cannot overwind an automatic watch. Automatic movements and their designers would particularly anticipate that the rotor would wind the watch throughout the time it is worn. If there were essentially no safety mechanisms, the mainspring certainly would snap under the tension.
To prevent this, automatic watches are equipped with a slipping bridle.
This can undoubtedly serve as your safety clutch. It is when the mainspring reaches maximum tension that the bridle slides along the inside of the barrel wall. You could gleefully keep turning the crown forever. The mainspring would aesthetically slip, obstructing any damage whatsoever. A fading clicking sound could also be heard, and when this happens, rest assured, your watch is protecting itself.
Expert Guidance for Your Horological Journey
To harmonize the rhyme and rhythm between a watch and a collector, it is crucial to analyse and study in depth the mechanical heartbeat of your watch, deepening your appreciation for it. Whether you are performing the "Seiko Shuffle" or carefully unscrewing the crown of a Submariner, your participation is key to a sustained, prevalent growth of the centuries-old tradition of engineering.
At Great Lakes Watch Company, founded by Timothy Mahon, we are dedicated to connecting enthusiasts with the finest watches the world has to offer. We don't just sell watches; we provide the expertise required to care for them.
For your next investment piece or to delve into the intricacies of your current collection, we are here to help. Schedule a meeting with our team today!
